Key Takeaways
- Thorough prep prevents peeling, stains, and visible flaws
- Repair, sand, and clean walls before priming for best adhesion
- Use the right primer for stains, new drywall, or glossy surfaces
- Protect floors and fixtures, and follow safety guidance for lead or mold
- Call a professional for major repairs, texture matching, or lead remediation
Tools Needed
- Drop cloths or plastic sheeting
- Painter's tape
- Putty knife and joint knife
- Sanding block and 120-220 grit sandpaper
- Orbital sander (optional)
- Vacuum with brush attachment
- Bucket and sponge
- Ladder or step stool
- Paint scraper
- Caulking gun
Materials Needed
- Spackle or joint compound
- Setting-type compound for large holes
- Lightweight patching plaster (if needed)
- All-purpose primer and stain-blocking primer
- Latex caulk
- Mild detergent or trisodium phosphate (TSP) alternative
- Masking paper or painter's plastic
- Disposable gloves and rags
- Fine mesh patching tape (for drywall seams)
⚠️ Safety Warnings
- If your home was built before 1978, test for lead paint before sanding or scraping; lead-safe work practices are required
- Always use ventilation when cleaning or using primers and cleaners; wear a respirator when sanding or using chemical cleaners
- Use ladders safely and have a helper for awkward or high work
- Wear eye protection, gloves, and a dust mask when sanding or using chemical cleaners
Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1: Clear, Protect, and Create a Work Area
Start by removing furniture or moving it to the room center and covering with drop cloths. Remove wall hangings, mirrors, outlet and switch covers, and any detachable trim. Use painter's tape to protect baseboards, window and door trim, and hardware you can't remove. Protect floors with canvas drop cloths or layered plastic—avoid slick plastic where you need traction. Ensure good lighting and ventilation by opening windows and setting up temporary lights if needed. Establish a staging area for tools and waste to keep the job organized and reduce trip hazards.
Step 2: Inspect Walls for Damage, Stains, and Problem Areas
Examine the walls under good lighting to find nail pops, cracks, holes, peeling paint, water stains, mildew, and damaged texture. Tap surfaces to detect hollow spots in drywall or loose plaster. Note areas that will need deeper repair like water-damaged sections or wide cracks that may require replacement of a drywall panel. Identify stains from smoke, water, or markers—these will need stain-blocking primer. If you see black or fuzzy mildew, treat and remove it before painting; if mold covers a large area or returns after cleaning, consult a professional.
Step 3: Repair Holes, Cracks, and Nail Pops
For small nail holes and pinholes, drive the nail in or remove it, then fill with spackle using a putty knife. For larger holes up to several inches, use patch kits or a drywall patch with mesh tape and joint compound. Wide cracks may need to be opened slightly, cleaned, filled with setting-type compound, and reinforced with tape. Sand each repair smooth after it dries and apply a second coat if needed to feather edges. For plaster walls with delamination, consult a pro if panels pop loose or large sections are thin and brittle.
Step 4: Sand Surfaces and Feather Repairs
Sand patched areas and glossy spots to a uniform matte finish so primer and paint will adhere. Start with 120-150 grit for higher spots, then finish with 180-220 grit for a smooth surface. Use a sanding block for flat areas and an oscillating sander or pole sander for large walls, keeping motion light and even. After sanding, vacuum walls with a brush attachment to remove dust, then wipe with a slightly damp tack cloth or sponge. Proper dust removal prevents paint defects and helps primer bond evenly.
Step 5: Clean Walls to Remove Dirt, Grease, and Mildew
Cleaning is critical—paint adheres poorly to dusty or greasy surfaces. For general cleaning, wash walls with warm water and a mild detergent using a sponge and rinsing with clean water. For kitchens or greasy areas, use a degreasing cleaner or a TSP substitute per manufacturer instructions. For mildew, scrub with a bleach solution (1 cup bleach to 1 gallon water) or a commercial mildew remover, rinse well, and allow to dry completely. Let walls dry 24 hours or more before priming in humid conditions. Proper cleaning avoids blistering and peeling later.
Step 6: Mask, Remove Fixtures, and Caulk Gaps
Mask off trim, windows, and floors with painter's tape and masking paper. Remove outlet and switch covers and consider removing light fixtures if they obstruct work. Inspect gaps between trim and drywall, then apply paintable latex caulk to seal joints and create crisp lines; smooth with a wet finger or tool. Caulking prevents paint lines and reduces dirt collection. Replace any loose baseboards or re-secure trim before priming. Accurate masking and caulking make the final paint lines look professional and minimize touch-up work.
Step 7: Prime Walls and Do a Final Inspection
Choose primer based on substrate and issues: stain-blocking primer for water or smoke stains, bonding primer for glossy surfaces, and standard drywall primer for new drywall. Apply primer evenly with a roller and brush into corners. Once dry, inspect walls for remaining imperfections; sand any raised fibers or minor flaws and spot-prime repairs. Priming evens porosity, seals patch compound, and improves paint coverage. After final inspection and touch-ups, your walls are ready for finish coats of paint.
When to Call a Professional
Call a professional when you encounter structural damage, significant drywall or plaster collapse, or recurring moisture and mold issues. Professionals can assess underlying causes such as leaks or ventilation problems and perform repairs that ensure long-term stability. If you discover extensive lead paint or asbestos-containing materials, hire certified remediation contractors to manage testing and safe abatement. Also consider hiring a pro for texture matching on plaster, large area skim-coating, or if you want a guaranteed, high-quality finish quickly. Pros bring experience in feathering, matching textures, and efficient priming and painting, which is often cost-effective for complex or large jobs.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to sand before priming?
Yes—light sanding smooths patch edges and dulls glossy surfaces so primer adheres. Use 120-220 grit depending on the task: coarser for leveling humps, finer for finishing. Always clean dust off after sanding to ensure a strong bond.
What primer should I use for stained walls?
Use a stain-blocking primer (oil-based or stain-sealing latex) for water, smoke, or tannin stains. These products lock in discoloration and prevent bleed-through into finish coats. Apply per label instructions and ensure the stain is dry and fixed before priming.
How do I tell if paint contains lead?
Homes built before 1978 may have lead-based paint. Use a certified lead test kit or hire a certified inspector to sample and test paint. If lead is present, follow EPA lead-safe work practices or hire a certified contractor for remediation.
Can I skip primer if Im using a paint-and-primer-in-one?
Paint-and-primer products can work on previously painted, well-prepared surfaces. However, for new drywall, patched areas, stains, or drastic color changes, a separate primer gives better coverage and adhesion. Use a dedicated primer for problem areas.