Key Takeaways
- Start with simple checks: power, remotes, keypad batteries, and wall switch.
- Sensor alignment and track obstructions are common, often solvable by homeowners.
- Never attempt spring or cable repairs — these are dangerous and need pros.
- If the opener motor hums, the drive or gears may be failing and likely need professional service.
Common Symptoms
- No response from remote, wall switch, or keypad
- Opener motor hums but door doesn’t move
- Door reverses immediately or won’t close fully
- Door is stuck partway or off its tracks
- Loud snapping sound (possible broken spring)
- Safety sensors show blinking lights or are misaligned
Possible Causes & Solutions
No power to the opener
How to Identify: Check the opener's power outlet for power. Try plugging a lamp into the same outlet. Inspect the opener for a red/orange power indicator light. Check household circuit breakers and any GFCI outlets in the garage.
Solution: Reset the tripped breaker or GFCI, or restore power. If the outlet is dead but breaker is fine, test outlet with a multimeter or call an electrician. Replace a blown fuse if present in older openers.
DIY: Yes
Remote control or keypad issues
How to Identify: Test with the wall switch: if the door works from the wall but not the remote/keypad, the issue is remote-related. Replace remote batteries and reprogram the remote if needed.
Solution: Replace the remote batteries, reprogram the remote or keypad according to your owner’s manual, and ensure the remote's frequency is not blocked. If the remote is damaged, purchase a compatible replacement.
DIY: Yes
Safety sensors misaligned or blocked
How to Identify: Look at the pair of sensors near the base of the door tracks — they should point at each other and show steady lights. If one or both are blinking or obstructed, the opener will not close or may refuse to open in some models.
Solution: Clear any dirt or spider webs from sensor lenses, realign sensors until indicator lights are steady, and tighten mounting brackets. Replace a sensor if its LED is out or wiring is damaged.
DIY: Yes
Obstruction or track problems
How to Identify: Visually inspect tracks for dents, bends, or foreign objects. Try manually lifting the door with the release handle (pull cord) — if it moves smoothly, the tracks are likely fine; if it binds, the tracks or rollers may be damaged.
Solution: Remove small obstructions and clean the track. Tighten loose track fasteners. Straighten minor track bends with a rubber mallet. Replace severely bent sections, rollers, or hardware if worn.
DIY: Yes
Broken or weak torsion/extension spring or frayed cable
How to Identify: Look for a visible gap in torsion spring(s), or a snapped extension spring alongside the track. Frayed cables, loud bangs, or a door that feels very heavy when pulled manually are red flags.
Solution: Do not attempt to repair or replace springs or cables yourself — these are under extreme tension and can cause serious injury. Secure the door in the closed position and call a qualified garage door technician.
DIY: No - Professional recommended
Opener motor, gears, or logic board failure
How to Identify: If the opener hums, clicks, or runs but the door doesn’t move, the drive gear or motor may be failing. Repeated failures, burning smells, or visible smoke indicate electrical failure.
Solution: For simple issues, check and replace worn nylon drive gears if your model allows it and you are comfortable with mechanical disassembly. Most motor or logic board problems require professional diagnosis and replacement.
DIY: No - Professional recommended
When to Call a Professional
Call a professional immediately if you see broken springs, frayed or detached cables, a door off its tracks, or if you detect burning smells or smoke. These conditions are dangerous and can cause injury or further property damage if handled incorrectly. Also call a technician if the opener motor fails repeatedly, the logic board appears faulty, or you cannot safely secure the door after performing basic checks. A pro can safely repair high-tension components, realign torsion springs, replace major opener components, and ensure the door is balanced and operating within manufacturer specifications.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my garage door hum but not open?
A humming opener with no movement usually indicates the motor is trying to run but the drive gear, sprocket, or internal gears are stripped or jammed. It can also mean the opener is slipping due to a broken belt or disengaged trolley. Stop using the opener and call a technician if you’re not comfortable inspecting internal parts; attempting to run a damaged motor can cause more damage.
Can I manually open the door if the opener is dead?
Yes—most openers have a manual release cord (usually red) that disconnects the trolley so you can lift the door by hand. Ensure the door is balanced and use caution: if springs are broken, the door may be very heavy and dangerous to lift. If the door is heavy or unbalanced, do not lift it—call a professional.
What should I check when the keypad won't work?
Start by replacing keypad batteries and verifying the keypad is powered (some models have an LED). Re-enter the pin and reprogram the keypad per the manual. Check the opener’s learn/code button and ensure the opener hasn’t been reset. If the keypad still fails, the unit may be faulty and require replacement.
How do I know if the safety sensors are the problem?
If the door reverses shortly after closing or won’t close at all, inspect the two safety sensors located low on each side of the door. Clean the lenses with a soft cloth, remove obstructions, and realign the sensors until both LEDs show steady lights (not blinking). Replace a sensor if its LED is dead or wiring is damaged.